Kettner’s – pride of Soho

Recently Kettner’s, that old stalwart of London’s most fascinating neighbourhood, Soho, has undergone a transformation. Unlike most makeovers this has not resulted in the usual employment of glass, steel and metal, presumably intended to bring to mind Kubrick’s ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’, but instead evokes memories of this famous brasserie’s past.

First opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, this historic venue gained popularity due to its proximity to London’s theatres and was regularly frequented by such luminaries as Edward VII, Lillie Langtry, Oscar Wilde and Agatha Christie.

Kettner’s still trades on its location, close to the heart of the capital’s theatreland, but has returned to its opulent roots, with a classic French brasserie menu and décor of which earlier visitors would heartily approve.

Some of the dishes on the menu could have been stolen from a Belle Époque Parisian kitchen (the crisp duck confit, for example), but most conform to what experts have described as “contemporary brasserie food.”

There are a number of rooms contained within Kettner’s, from the informal, all-day brasserie presided over by Head Chef Rufus Wickham to the popular Pudding Bar, which is a comfortable space for afternoon tea or a late-night treat. Alcoholic delights can be experienced in Kettner’s Champagne Bar, an elegant paean to the prestige and power of sparkling wine.

Accessed via a separate entrance on Greek Street, The Apartment has all the advantages of an old-fashioned gentleman’s club (superb ambience, comfortable chairs, matchless service) with the advantage of there being no membership fee and the welcome addition of some very contemporary features. This is a great place to meet friends after a hard day’s shopping or to catch up on some work on one’s laptop. Reportedly inspired by a French film director’s lair its décor includes casting couches, a drinks cabinet and a gleaming grand piano, while there are also some modern touches such as Wi-Fi access and a music system. Visitors can enjoy a cup of tea or coffee and a slice of cake or even an exotic cocktail and a light snack.

Kettner’s also features a series of private rooms for rent that are ideal for business or family get-togethers. Christmas meals are particularly legendary and, with this latest return to its nineteenth century roots, diners can enjoy a truly Dickensian Christmas meal, courtesy of this historic restaurant.

Kettner’s website.

New post on at Wednesday, 30 December, 2009, 6:46 am and is archived in Food and drink, Lifestyle, Luxury, Places of Interest. Subscribe to answers with RSS 2.0 feed. You can post a comment, or make a trackback from your web.