Whereas Midsummer celebrations in Britain tend to be confined to specific areas such as Stonehenge, the Spanish take it as seriously as the Scandinavians, whose festivities are legendary.
San Juan has traditionally been associated more with northern Spain, where its similarity to pagan rituals of purification is quite obvious. However, as visitors to the coastal areas during the summer will attest, it is now celebrated just as enthusiastically on the Costas.
Spanish midsummer traditions used to involve gathering selected medicinal plants, such as species of fern, fennel, St. John’s wort, lemon verbena, dog rose, rosemary, foxgloves, laburnum, mallows and elderflower, which were soaked overnight. The flower water was then used for bathing the hands and face. This ritual is less common now, but the presence of fire – another symbol of purification and renewal – is still a vital part of Noche de San Juan. On the night of June 23rd all the local people head to the nearest beach for a night of intense revelry. The sardines that are the staple food of San Juan are cooked on numerous barbecues all over the beach and bonfires are lit.
Consumption of alcohol is also a traditional part of this dramatic fiesta. In the north of Spain Queimada is the traditional tipple, a fiery liquor with Celtic origins consisting of Galician grappa mixed with sugar, pieces of fruit and coffee beans, which is set alight. For added effect, an incantation warning off evil spirits is chanted.
As the cordite from a thousand exploding fireworks clouds the air the young men, fuelled by Queimada and pints of San Miguel, jump over the fires. Some of the more creative and athletic youths somersault through the air. It is traditional to leap over the fire an odd number of times; the more foolhardy might attempt nine jumps, although three is a more traditional number. As they leap, they shout “meigas fora” (witches out).
Performing this annual ritual is thought to protect the participants from harm until the next Noche de San Juan – when they will have to summon up the courage to renew their immunity!
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